Initially, and the query that many individuals ask me once I inform them a few journey I made again in ’05: Why the hell did you go to North Korea?! The reply is straightforward: I love to do issues somewhat in a different way. Most individuals suppose an important vacation is sitting on a seaside in Thailand for every week, burning themselves and getting hammered each evening, waking up round noon and so on. I might a lot desire to see locations and do issues in order that once I come again from my vacation I’ve obtained a sense of accomplishment. I wasn’t actually taking a look at vacation locations once I was looking the BBC information website and a narrative about DPRK’s nuclear ambitions once I saw a hyperlink entitled, Holidays in North Korea. In that article I examine a company referred to as Koryo Excursions and from then my curiosity rose vastly. This company, run out of a Beijing workplace by 2 British guys, organized visas and did common excursions to DPRK all year long, throughout which you had the possibility of visiting and seeing issues a lot of the world won’t ever see. This was proper up my road, and I exchanged a bunch of emails with one of many guys, getting extra data on the journeys and what was attainable (sadly no diving was allowed, by I did ask they usually did enquire!). Ultimately, I settled for a 6-day Might Day Stadium tour of the nation, flying into Pyongyang and coming again by practice to Beijing. Not solely would this tour embody seeing some spectacular and uncommon sights, however there was additionally the prospect of going to see the World Cup Qualifying match between DPRK and Japan, to be performed on the nation’s Might Day Stadium. That is the most important stadium on the earth, seating over 150,000 individuals. To place it into perspective somewhat, it’s over twice the dimensions of the Olympic Stadium in Seoul, South Korea.
I did some research concerning the nation, and though data is pretty restricted, I managed to select up a superb travel information and DVD documentary concerning the nation. Initially, the Bradt Travel Information to North Korea was a superb useful resource, each earlier than my journey and through my travels in DPRK. It features a lot sensible travel data and covers nearly each space of DPRK that you simply may need to go to. In the event you ever handle to go there, this e book can be extremely beneficial. Via Koryo Excursions, I additionally managed to get my palms on a duplicate of a BBC documentary referred to as A State Of Thoughts. It is a fascinating documentary, and is among the greatest DVDs I’ve ever purchased. It revolves round 2 ladies who’re getting ready for the Mass Games in DPRK. Extra about these later, however in abstract the Mass Games is a big choreographed gymnastics spectacle involving 1000’s of gymnasts. In easy phrases, it makes the Olympic opening ceremony appear to be a major college pageant. I’ll speak somewhat about this later, however will depart you with a photograph of the occasion itself (sadly not mine, I did not have probability to see it on my go to as it’s often held in April/Might and August/September).
As for foreign money, we have been requested to convey something, though Euros can be most popular. US$ have been accepted, however for those who paid for issues in Euros you’ll get a a lot better value for issues. In DPRK they’ve their very own foreign money, though foreigners are strictly not alleged to have it for some cause. The cash scenario is somewhat unusual at one of the best of instances, and typically downright weird. Firstly, only a few locations may have change, so it’s best to take small denomination notes of your cash. Certainly, quite a few locations may have no cash in any respect! For instance, one evening we have been sat on the bar in our resort having a beer or two after a tough day of sightseeing. I used to be about to pay the tab and head off to bed as I used to be feeling somewhat weary so I went to the bar with my invoice (round 7 Euros) and I gave her a ten Euro observe. I sat round for five minutes or so ready for my change, after which the waitress got here again to me, stated “No change” and handed me one other beer! What an ingenious approach of doing issues: we can’t offer you change, however we’ll simply offer you extra of what you’ve got been consuming. I might have been paralytic if I might have solely had a 50 Euro observe to hand! We have been additionally requested to convey small items for the guides we’d meet, as they’d be extra appreciated than cash. So, as suggested, I purchased some hand cream for any feminine guides I might meet (Nivea is favoured by them, if my reminiscence serves me appropriately), and a few cigarettes and chocolate for the men (the extra nicotine, the higher).
We had a short assembly in Beijing 2 days earlier than we travelled, to type out our passport visas and be given a number of pointers for DPRK. It was all pretty routine stuff (be respectful, ask earlier than taking images and so on) nevertheless it needed to be stated as a result of if not then somebody would all the time go too far. The factor is, in DPRK the foreigner would not get into a lot hassle about that, however their tour information can be severely reprimanded and the company could not get as a lot probability to tour the nation. We have been particularly informed to be respectful and good to the primary guides, as a result of in the event that they just like the group you then may see issues that not each tour group will get to see. We have been additionally informed that, disappointingly, the World Cup Qualifying game between DPRK & Japan had been moved to a impartial location (Thailand) due to crowd hassle in a earlier game. Some individuals have been sad with this, however there actually was nothing we may do. We may complain and be grumpy by your entire journey, or we may take advantage of what we’d see. Although the Kumsusan Memorial Palace of Kim Il Sung couldn’t be visited as a result of renovations, I nonetheless knew this may be an unforgettable journey. With that in thoughts, 2 days later we boarded the twice-weekly Beijing-Pyongyang flight, courtesy of Air Koryo.
Now, while you travel someplace, there are specific indicators that your journey goes to be an eventful one. Being on an flight to some of the secretive international locations on the earth, sat in between a man from the World Meals Programme an an Ethiopian arms vendor is one such signal! However this was the scenario during which I discovered myself, sat on this aircraft straight out of the 70s. However to their credit score, each guys have been very pleasant, though the Ethiopian did bend the reality barely, saying he was visiting DPRK on vacation. It was solely later I came upon he travels there nearly each month, and all the time says to individuals he is happening vacation. I’m wondering how huge the North Korean tourism enterprise is in Ethiopia. The thoughts boggles. There was additionally a Spanish man on the flight in a communist-style swimsuit with a giant medal, who informed us he was linked to the DPRK authorities. We have been informed by one of many tour company guys to steer clear although, so I stored my distance.
The very first thing you see while you get off the aircraft in Pyongyang is a big image of Kim Il Sung on the roof of the airport. As I appeared again on the aircraft, I seen the air crews pouring water on the smoking aircraft tyres! Suppose somebody might need landed somewhat too shortly! Aside from that, the flight was nice. Everybody was barely confused as to why the touchdown gear was lowered at about 20,000ft, however who’re we to inform the pilot what to do! Within the airport, bags have been collected and objects akin to MP3 gamers and mobile telephones have been handed in to customs officers as they aren’t allowed within the nation. Opposite to fashionable opinion although, digicam and video cameras have been positive to herald.
The guides launched themselves to us, and our important information was a lady with good English, referred to as Mrs Lee. She was an superior information… very pleasant and educated about every part. She was one of many government-appointed guides, however talked about every part with the minimal of bias and the best quantity of data. She’d clearly met fairly a number of tour teams, and was filled with questions on our households and what we did in our home international locations. Just a few individuals introduced images of our images and lives from home, and it was a pleasant feeling to introduce them to her. There have been truly 2 guides appointed to our tour group of 20 individuals. There have been 2 causes for this I feel, neither of which was that they may spy on us higher! Firstly, the group was fairly huge they usually wished to handle everybody in the easiest way. The second cause might be (and I hasten so as to add that I do not know this for certain) that the two guides may censor one another. If there was just one, then it’s attainable that they may say one thing damaging concerning the nation or its politics; with 2 individuals there may be all the time another person listening. We additionally had a cameraman strolling round with our group, who would make a VCD of our journey that we may buy on the finish of our journey. That was a nifty little concept, and I stated I might positively like a duplicate of that.
One of many first issues that hit me as we entered Pyongyang on our tour bus was how clean it was. There have been a number of individuals, each adults & youngsters, who have been pulling up weeds alongside the streets and paths by hand. Technologically-advanced, this metropolis shouldn’t be, nevertheless it appeared pleasant sufficient up to now. Not one of the navy parades of big missiles evident up to now, that you simply often see within the western media. Our first cease on the tour was Fountain Park. This was a large open area (Pyongyang has plenty of these) with many very massive water fountains, together with some lovely statues of ladies dancing. There have been a number of kids strolling round and we managed to get some pleasant acknowledgements from them by smiling and waving. The power of a smile, even within the so-called Axis of Evil, is immense. A small group of ladies have been strolling throughout the park they usually came visiting. One of many ladies proceeded to provide us a 2-minute jamming session on her guitar-like factor (are you able to inform I do not play music?!) whereas her associates appeared on. As suggested, we requested for permission to take some images of the women and the environment, after which began snapping away. To be sincere, there weren’t the restrictions on taking images that you simply may anticipate. In fact, no person tried to take images of navy installations or personnel, however at any time when we requested to take pictures, the reply was all the time “Sure”.
From the park, we headed to our subsequent cease (and an important cease on the tour): the bronze statue of Kim Il Sung at Mansudae. For these of you unfamiliar with DPRK’s historical past & politics, Kim Il Sung was the chief of the nation from 1948 (when the nation was based) till his demise in 1994. Following his demise, there have been 3 years of official mourning. This era of Kim Il Sung statue at Mansudaetime with Kim Il Sung’s mourning, coupled with dangerous harvests and declining dwelling circumstances, grew to become often called the Arduous March. The statue was stated by our information to weigh as a lot as all of the hearts of the Korean individuals. Observe that the phrase “Korean” was used to suggest each Koreas. In DPRK they nonetheless say that Korea is one nation, and that they may reunify in time. Across the statue are 2 different monuments, each depicting individuals preventing within the Korean Battle (referred to as in DPRK The Victorious Fatherland Liberation Battle) from 1950 to 1953. Because the statue, a number of of us purchased flowers and laid them on the entrance of the statue, earlier than strolling again and paying our respects by bowing. This was the primary event I realised that some individuals won’t be suited to a visit to DPRK. It’s important to undergo the bowing to Kim Il Sung, and simply settle for it, even for those who do not approve of the management of the nation. It’s all about exhibiting respect and politeness for a international nation during which you’re a uncommon visitor. It is a comparable take care of the tales that you’re informed. Typically they appear far fetched, the guides know they sound far fetched, you understand they do, and the guides know that you understand. However the hot button is simply to play together with it, take it in with curiosity and use your head somewhat. A pair on our tour tried to ask questions that have been pushy or embarrassing, and all that did was make the information flustered and upset at us. No one benefited and, probably, everybody misplaced out. So for those who do think about a visit to this fascinating nation, bear that in thoughts.
The resort we stayed at was the Yanggakdo Lodge in central Pyongyang. In the event you go to DPRK, you’ll probably both keep right here or within the Koryo Lodge. This resort is great and is by itself island! It has a 9-hole golf course, cinema, soccer stadium, on line casino, rotating restaurant on the prime of the resort (this can be a recurring theme), and just about every part else you can need within the resort grounds (so vacationers would not be tempted to cross the bridge into the capital itself?).
The resort additionally has 47 flooring and round 1,000 rooms. However the factor is, there have been solely round 25 individuals staying on the resort, and in our tour group individuals have been sharing rooms so on the most, 20 rooms would have been occupied. All our group have been situated on the twenty fifth floor, and folks have been making frequent feedback about what may presumably be on the opposite flooring. So far as I do know, no person was courageous/silly sufficient to try to discover out. Though the resort was a lot akin to a ghost city, the rooms have been good and clean, and supplied an important view of town, together with the Juche Tower.
Whereas we have been going to dinner on the primary evening, we have been informed that there would not be few, if any reveals or festivals on in the meanwhile, as a result of everybody working within the fields. At the moment, the college had closed and quite a few authorities places of work had been closed as individuals have been mobilised to plant rice as a result of fears over meals shortages. Having seen comparable tales about China, this appears to be the communist approach of coping with issues like that; throw everybody you possibly can at it. It won’t be so productive and is definitely not environment friendly or economical, however it’s what they do. It additionally reveals the Juche, or self-reliance, ideology coming to the fore. Our venue for dinner was the Nationwide Restaurant, and we have been the one visitors there. This was additionally a typical theme – we have been the one individuals eating out. Though this is not vastly stunning, and I doubt if we weren’t visiting the restaurant would even be open. The meals was fairly good truly, and it was apparent they have been attempting to showcase DPRK’s positive eating. It made me suppose and mirror somewhat although. They have been serving up a number of the greatest meals they may supply within the nation to us, and but so many individuals in different components of town are coping on tiny rations of rice and greens every month. Once more, it is one of many stuff you simply have to just accept when you’re right here. Accompanying dinner was stay music, by a gaggle of ladies in conventional Korean gown. The songs have been revolutionary songs, and the music had a particular Russian really feel to it. I appeared round for copies of “The Finest Songs Devoted To The Nice Chief and The Common Album… Ever!!!”, however alas it was nowhere to be discovered. We did conclude that the drummer continually appeared like she wished to simply begin thrashing the drums, somewhat than stick with the common tapping of the cymbal. Undecided what the state of heavy steel music is in DPRK, however she’d match proper in.
Going again to the resort, I had a few beers earlier than heading again to my room. As soon as there although, I used to be in a position to flip the lights out, open the window and gaze out into the evening skyline. In the event you do this in most cities, and particularly capital cities, you possibly can hear street works, visitors going previous, loud music and so on. In Pyongyang it was nearly silent. You might hear a few voices drifting over the water to the resort, however aside from that it was quiet. There have been comparatively few lights coming from the massive variety of buildings that have been a kilometre or two away. For some cause I awoke at about 4am within the evening, and as soon as once more went to the window which we would left open. Looking, you can see nothing – there wasn’t a single light seen and the one sound was a dog barking someplace within the metropolis. Very eerie, however an interesting expertise.
Awakened early and switched on the TV in our room to get a fuzzy BBC World transmission (DPRK do not pay for any TV rights, so that they should unscramble the alerts as greatest they will themselves I consider). There was an announcement that it was Worldwide Setting Day, which was acceptable as I used to be most likely within the cleanest capital metropolis on the earth. Pyongyang makes Tokyo appear to be a trashy dump, and I did not see a single piece of litter on the road all through my whole journey. One other factor Pyongyang has is huge open areas. It’s reported that based on UN environmental statistics, Pyongyang has the biggest quantity of inexperienced and parkland per individual of any capital metropolis on the earth. The skies have been blue, nevertheless it was fairly hazy and you can solely simply see over the Taedong River and into Pyongyang. However after breakfast, that was our vacation spot and first up was the Juche Tower.
An offspring of communism, Juche is summed up fairly effectively by Wikipedia: “The core precept of the Juche ideology for the reason that Nineteen Seventies has been that “man is the grasp of every part and decides every part””. Essentially the most fascinating options of this construction are all to do with numbers. The tower was created in celebration of Kim Il Sung’s seventieth birthday, and the constructing has 25,550 blocks (one for every day of KIS’s life). The tower is definitely made up of tiers: on the north and south facet there are 18 tiers and on the east and west facet, 17 tiers. Add these up and also you get the magical 70. Additionally, on the base of the tower there are flowers carved (the Kimilsungia) into the stone. 35 flowers on the east and west sides offers you… you guessed it, 70.
The views from the underside have been fairly good, however the panoramic views from the platform on the prime of the tower have been breathtaking. You might see your entire metropolis, though there you can see just about no automobiles on the roads. There have been a few bicycles, however nearly no motorised transport. Following the Juche Tower, our subsequent cease was the closeby Korean Employees Social gathering Monument. This was erected to rejoice 50 years of the Korean Employees Social gathering, and once more the numbers play an necessary function. The highest of the hammer, sickle and brush (denoting the three courses of individuals in society) are 50m excessive, and the diameter of the monument can also be 50m. The historical past of the Social gathering is written in bronze letters on the wall of the monument, and the dimensions of the issues needs to be seen first-hand to be appreciated. The individuals constructed this in a single 12 months, which works to point out how productive they are often when given the assets to play with.
After seeing somewhat our of town, we headed out of city, previous Kim Il Sung College, and went to Mt Taesong and the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery. Right here, round 200 martyrs of revolutionary preventing in opposition to Japanese Imperialists are buried and remembered. Every martyr has a statue made out of copper and all of the busts face Pyongyang, positioned so that every one has a transparent view of the capital. Pleasure of place on the prime of the cemetery goes to Kim Il Sung’s spouse. Within the cemetery, sombre revolutionary music participant (I am certain, solely as a result of we have been there), which gave an odd feeling to the entire occasion.
Lunch was taken within the (rotating) restaurant on the 230m tall Tv Tower. A rickety old elevate obtained us as much as the highest nevertheless it will need to have been the slowest elevate I’ve ever been in! It took about 3 agonising minutes to get to the highest, with the fixed concern that the string that was pulling us up may snap and despatched us plummeting to our sure doom at any time! However we made it to the highest and the views have been spectacular. The meals was, as soon as once more, one of the best that DPRK needed to supply, and our after lunch leisure was karaoke courtesy of the two waitresses who’d been serving us. A smile in direction of one in every of them ended up in her holding my hand whereas she sang her music (I am certain speaking concerning the greatness and wonderfullness of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il)! I used to be barely distressed that I might need unknowingly simply joined the Employees Social gathering of Korea, and would not be allowed to go away!
First cease after lunch was the Arch of Triumph in the course of Pyongyang. Sound acquainted? Nicely, you may consider the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and while you take a look at this arch you would be forgiven for mistaking it for the Parisian landmark. This arch was modelled on the one in France, however constructed greater in order that the declare could be made that that is the biggest stone arch on the earth 한국 비자.
You will discover that DPRK likes its world data. The arch was fairly spectacular, as was standing in the course of a 3-lane street for minutes whereas taking photos of it, with out the slightest concern of a car coming. Strive doing that in London! On the photograph to the best you possibly can see the Arch of Triumph within the foreground, however I anticipate a lot of you’re questioning what the triangular-shaped constructing is within the background. Nicely that may be a secret for now, and all can be revealed partly 3 of this travelogue. Relaxation assured, it’s positively value ready for! Close to the Arch of Triumph is one other stadium in Pyongyang, and out of doors the stadium have been some individuals getting ready their gymnastic routine for the Mass Games.
We headed again out into the sticks after seeing the arch, and in direction of a Buddhist temple. On the best way, we saw a great deal of individuals working within the fields, even on a Sunday (their supposed break day through the week). This was real subsistence agriculture although; you saw oxen pulling makeshift ploughs by the soil and in some locations it simply appeared so dry and barren that something would battle to grow there. The temple itself was fairly fascinating, though not as a lot because the sights I might seen beforehand within the day. Apparently, Buddhism was the primary faith in DPRK earlier than the Juche concept was put ahead. I’ve learn conflicting proof about this although, & there are a lot of reviews that faith is banned in DPRK, regardless of what we have been informed by the guides. I can not report both approach although – I am simply stating what I saw and maintaining unbiased about every part. After the temple journey we headed again into Pyongyang and it obtained somewhat surreal. We have been taken to a clothing export exhibition, which confirmed examples of the clothes that they’d exported to different international locations (primarily sportswear). They gave us examples of the international locations they exported to (e.g. UK, Hong Kong, China), and we have been then taken to a store the place we may purchase some DPRK genuine clothing! Different have been sceptical however I simply jumped proper in and man myself a T-shirt! The entire journey right here was as in the event that they have been saying, “Have a look at us! We produce issues that different international locations need and want!”.
A 30 minute bus journey led us again into the nation and over to King Tongmyong’s tomb. The information at this website wasn’t an English-speaker, however our resident information translated every part for us. We have been proven across the tomb on King Tongmyong, who lived round 5,000 years in the past. It was apparently he who arrange the nation of Korea, and who based the primary capital metropolis within the nation. Within the grounds of the temple, there have been 3 artists portray the panorama (by probability, or informed to be there?). I wished to suppose it was the previous, and the photographs have been fairly good so I purchased one. Hopefully not all of that cash would go straight to the federal government. I obtained the artist’s title on the image and had it dated, and I gave a gift to the information for exhibiting us round. The consequence: I had one other DPRK girl holding and stroking my arm as we walked again to the bus! A lot for being informed we’d have little or no contact with the locals.
Within the south of Pyongyang is the Mangyongdae Shrine, which is the place Kim Il Sung was born and the place he spent his early years. The home he was born in was pretty humble and it appeared like his family was fairly poor. The home’s setting was now in a park and was very nice to stroll round in; the stroll to the viewing space was interrupted solely by a few squirrels and chipmunks crossing our path. We have been informed that Koreans did not go to the home after KIS’s demise as a result of they wished to maintain it in a pristine state. Undecided if that’s strictly true, however I simply nodded and smiled and took all of it in.
I am out of phrases nearly for this text, however as soon as it’s stay right here I’ll submit the following half. Thanks for taking the time to learn it.
