소개
이 안내서는 개인 주택 소유자가 지하실 방수 문제를 해결하는 최선의 방법에 대해 업계의 다양한 ‘전문가’에게 질문할 때 종종 제시되는 상충되는 조언을 평가하도록 돕는 것을 목표로 합니다.
파트 1:- 지하실 구조 및 용도의 다양성.
매우 간단하게 방수 관점에서 지하실은 세 가지 범주로 나뉩니다.
A. 방수가 되지 않는 석조 구조물
B. 일체형 방수 구조
C. 배수 공동 구조
그들의 용도는 종종 네 가지 등급으로 분류됩니다.
1. 낮은 등급(바닥의 물이 그다지 중요하지 않은 차고 등)
2. 저장 등급(환경은 합리적으로 건조해야 하지만 거주 가능한 기준이 아니어야 하므로 환기 등은 그다지 중요하지 않으며 약간의 습기는 여전히 허용될 수 있음)
3. 거주 가능한 등급(벽과 바닥은 건조하고 습도는 생활에 적합한 범위 내로 조절되어야 함)
4. 특별한 요구 사항(기록 보관소, 고급 와인, 민감한 컴퓨터 설치, 귀중한 예술 작품 등을 저장하기 위해 온도와 습도의 완전한 제어가 필수적인 경우 수원누수).
범주 4는 일반적으로 일반적인 국내 목적에는 필요하지 않으며 여기서는 무시됩니다.
간단히 말해서 지하실은 A, B 또는 C이고 1,2 또는 3에 사용하고 싶을 것입니다.
ABC 123보다 더 간단할 수 있는 것은 무엇입니까!!!?
ABC에 대한 약간의 정교함이 필요하다고 생각합니다 …
유형 A, 비 방수 석조 구조에는 벽돌 블록 작업, 석재가 포함됩니다. 바닥과 벽은 구조의 분리된 요소가 아닌 경우가 더 많습니다. 즉, 강철 보강재로 함께 묶여 있지 않기 때문에 서로 다르게 움직일 수 있습니다. 시스템이 효과적으로 작동하려면 견고한 구조가 필요할 수 있으므로 이것은 방수 시스템을 선택할 때 중요한 포인트입니다.
가장 오래된 스타일의 국내 부동산은 유형 A 범주에 속합니다.
B형, (아마도) 일체형 방수 구조. 이들은 일반적으로 벽과 바닥이 보강재로 함께 묶인 철근 콘크리트 구조이며 전체 구조는 추가 방수가 필요 없이 적절하게 두껍고 튼튼하며 수밀하도록 설계되었습니다. 그러나 유감스럽게도 엔지니어나 건축가의 이론적인 도면과 계산이 항상 현장에서 완벽하게 번역되는 것은 아니며 워터 바(구조물에서 접합부를 밀봉하는 플라스틱 스트립) 바닥에 있는 제대로 압축되지 않은 콘크리트 비트의 약간의 결함이 있습니다. 혼합물에 물을 너무 많이 부어 수축 균열을 초래하면 아무 것도 없어야 할 곳에서 누출이 발생할 수 있습니다!
많은 현대 지하실 구조가 유형 B 범주에 속합니다. 우리는 ‘실패한 유형 B’에 대해서만 관심을 가질 것입니다. 왜냐하면 성공은 분명히 방수가 필요하지 않기 때문입니다!
유형 C. 깊은 지하실을 포함하는 많은 토목 공학 구조물은 배수 캐비티 형식으로 건설됩니다. 다음 번에 큰 쇼핑 센터의 지하 주차장에서 2층 또는 2층 아래에 있고 멋진 DRY 콘크리트 블록 벽을 보고 있을 때 아마도 지상 아래까지 왜 그렇게 건조한지 의아해할 것입니다. 그렇지는 않습니다. 하지만 귀하의 단층집 지하실이 침수된 경우 어떻게 이를 달성했는지 궁금할 것입니다.
아주 간단하게, 여러분이 보고 있는 블록 작업 벽은 그것과 그 너머의 흙 옹벽 사이에 있는 공동에 의해 분리됩니다. 흙 옹벽은 종종 매우 습하고 심지어 물이 침투할 수도 있지만 내부 벽은 그 사이의 ‘배수 공동’ 덕분에 건조하게 유지됩니다. 캐비티의 물은 어딘가에서 배수되어야 하며 일반적으로 펌프로 배출되는 섬프 챔버로 배수됩니다.
국내 부동산이 석조 또는 콘크리트 배수 공동 벽으로 건설되는 경우는 드물지만 ‘소형’ 배수 공동은 흙 옹벽에 멤브레인을 적용하여 종종 생성되어 옹벽과 옹벽 사이에 공동을 생성합니다. 막 자체. 따라서 유형 A 석조 구조는 종종 이러한 멤브레인을 적용하여 유형 C 구조로 변환될 수 있습니다.
그러나 이것은 우리를 방수로 인도합니다 …..
2부 방수 방법.
지난 섹션의 끝 부분에서 배수 공동 상황에서 ‘구조’와 ‘방수’가 어떻게 통합적으로 연결되어 있는지 설명했습니다. 구조물에 배수 공동이 있는 경우 배수 공동은 구조물의 일부이지만 방수의 필수 부분이기도 합니다. 전자가 후자를 제자리에 고정해야 하는 것처럼 구조가 방수만큼 중요한 탱크 유형 A 구조의 경우에도 마찬가지입니다. 구조와 방수가 함께 작동하고 서로 의존하는 방식을 이해하지 못하는 것은 방수 시스템 실패의 일반적인 원인입니다.
A형 구조물 방수
기본적으로 두 가지 접근 방식이 있습니다.
1. ‘탱크 시스템’ 적용 이것은 물이 외부에 있는 탱크인 뒤집힌 ‘탱크’를 만들기 위해 벽과 바닥에 접착된 일종의 코팅입니다.
2. 배수 채널과 섬프 및 펌프와 함께 배수 공동 멤브레인을 설치하여 구조를 유형 C ‘배수 공동’ 구조로 변환합니다.
이러한 일반적인 방법에는 세분류가 있지만 원칙적으로 ‘물을 억제’하거나 ‘배수’하고 있습니다.
각 방법에 대해 자세히 살펴보겠습니다.
1. 탱킹
역청 페인트의 모든 것; 아스팔트(모래와 타르의 혼합물) 모래/시멘트 렌더 및 방수 첨가제가 포함된 규준대를 특수 배합된 슬러리 코팅에 사용할 수 있고 사용할 수 있습니다.
이 방법의 가장 큰 단점은 수압과 싸우고 있다는 것입니다(어쨌든 잠재적으로 모든 지하실이 항상 수압의 영향을 받는 것은 아니지만 모든 지하실이 미래의 언젠가는 수압의 영향을 받을 수 있다고 가정해야 합니다. ).
이 방법은 적용되는 구조의 품질에 전적으로 의존합니다.
이것을 인식하지 못하는 것은 많은 실패, 불필요한 비용, 상심과 눈물로 이어졌습니다.
대부분의 유형 A 구조는 차동 운동을 하는 경향이 있습니다. 즉, 벽과 바닥이 서로 차등적으로 이동하여 벽 바닥 조인트에 작은 균열을 형성하거나 벽과 바닥이 안쪽으로 약간 구부러질 수 있지만 탱킹 시스템에 균열이 생길 수 있습니다. .
차동 운동과는 다르지만 마찬가지로 중요한 것은 ‘기질의 전체 강도’, 특히 인장 강도입니다.
Now I don’t need to get too technical right here so let me clarify what I imply in easy phrases.
Think about a water-resistant coating adhering to the within face of a brick wall. Water on the skin of the wall is tending to ‘push’ on the again of the coating as if it had been making an attempt to push it off. I say ‘as if’ due to course the water will not be ‘making an attempt’ to do something it doesn’t have a thoughts of its personal, it’s simply responding to gravity and obeying the legal guidelines of physics.
So if in case you have that image up to now, think about that the waterproof coating has been utilized completely to that the bond between the brick and the coating is powerful. The brick goes to expertise a ‘stretching drive because the face of the brick is pushed away from the wall.
And, sure it doesn’t take an excessive amount of creativeness to visualise what occurs subsequent, the face of the brick comes away with the waterproof coating as bricks will not be superb at resisting being stretched (the technical time period is that they’ve a low tensile energy).
Such a failure wouldn’t occur in a swimming pool although. Right here the water pressure is on the opposite aspect and is tending to push the waterproof coating onto the wall, compressing the masonry behind it. Now masonry is sweet in compression to the system doesn’t fail.
One other severe subject is the construct up of salts behind the tanking system.
Many individuals will likely be conversant in this every single day phenomenon.
When water evaporates it leaves behind the small traces of drugs that had been dissolved in it. We see this on the factor of a kettle. The identical occurs when water evaporates within the wall of a cellar or basement. Salt crystals can usually be seen on the wall floor (usually mistaken for mould) generally these crystals type behind paintwork and push the paint off in blisters, which when popped, reveal the salt crystals behind.
Many tanking programs are offered as ‘breathable’ renders. They’re designed to cease liquid water coming via however permit the wall to ‘breathe’ i.e. permit evaporation to happen and for moisture vapour to flee.
So….. if the water goes to evaporate, then it’ll go away behind a rising layer of salt crystals, the essential query is, in a bonded system, the place, precisely, is the house for these crystals?”
The easy reply is that there’s none, in order the salt crystals grow they make their very own house by pushing the render or different coating off the wall and we now have one other tanking failure.
Now, that is the purpose the place I could also be accused of being biased towards tanking programs, however I’m not! I’m biased towards programs that fail, that’s for certain, towards programs which can be utilized to inappropriate substrates.
IT NEEDS TO BE SAID. “APPLYING A BONDED TANKING SYSTEM TO AN OLDER STYLE MASONRY STRUCTURE IS ASKING FOR FAILURE”.
And the overwhelming majority of basement waterproofing tasks are in older-style masonry constructions.
Q. Why does tanking seem to work a whole lot of the time?
A. BECAUSE THERE IS NO WATER PRESSURE A LOT OF THE TIME. As quickly as water pressure seems, i.e. from a burst water essential, unusually heavy rain, change in floor drainage attributable to constructing works and many others the tanking will ‘fail’.
I’ve misplaced depend of the variety of occasions that individuals have instructed me that the tanking labored for years after which simply occurred to fail on the sooner or later that there was water pressure. – “The day we left the hose on” or “the day the pipe burst within the floor”.
So, in conclusion, bonded tanking programs ought to solely be used when it may be foreseen that there by no means will likely be any water pressure or when the construction is suitably inflexible and the substrate has a suitably excessive tensile energy for the waterproofing system to be held in place by the construction with out de-lamination or cracking. These circumstances are relative uncommon and symbolize the place tanking COULD be used not SHOULD be used.
2. CONVERTING THE STRUCTURE TO A TYPE C DRAINED CAVITY
It’s explicitly acknowledged within the British Commonplace BS8102 “Defending constructions beneath Floor towards Water” that that is essentially the most dependable and bother free methodology of waterproofing a basement.
Many specialist contractors (who was once ‘tanking specialists’ have change to this methodology over latest years and it seems to be a a method avenue. I’ve by no means heard of a specialist contractor turning from drained cavity to ‘Tanking’.
In it is most simple type, this consists of fixing a plastic membrane (often however not at all times) dimpled over the partitions and floor. The thought of the dimples is to create a ‘house’ for the water to stream – sometimes 8mm on partitions and 20mm on the floor.
These membranes will not be ‘bonded’ to the wall however mechanically mounted with plastic fixings and intervals, leaving the membrane un-bonded in-between.
Now in reality, if water IS working down the wall it often in an immeasurably skinny movie, not 8mm thick, if that quantity of water had been ever to come back down an inner wall floor no sump and pump would ever deal with it and the wall cloth would most likely not final very lengthy, so the necessity for the 8mm dimples is a basement waterproofing fable!
One of many massive drawbacks with plastic membranes is that they stop moisture vapour from shifting via them however don’t retain warmth so you may get a construct up of moisture vapour on a chilly floor – a recipe for condensation. I’ve seen puddles on flooring attributable to this.
Utilizing a thermally insulated membrane which retains the vapour barrier heat and holding some background warmth on is the reply, presumably complimented with a dehumidifier.
Air flow, while needed for recent oxygen and eliminating stale air IS NOT the reply to condensation as it will possibly carry in additional humid air from the skin. In case you warmth and dehumidify your basement air – you need to hold it not ventilate it away!
A drained cavity system relies upon solely upon the sump and pump system that in the end evacuates the water from the basement. That is an space that shouldn’t be skimped on as nothing will work with out it. We might at all times suggest using a bespoke sump and pump system which can embody a pre-formed liner, pump stand and alarm. Sump liners are sometimes perforated to permit water straight from the bottom beneath the floor slab. This ‘de-watering’ of the earth underneath the floor usually stops the partitions and floor from leaking in any respect and so reduces the significance of the roll of the wall and floor membrane. In truth in lots of circumstances the ‘Cavity Drain Membrane’ turns into not more than a vapour barrier moderately than a conduit for leaking water. Even much less want for dimples then and extra significance on the insulating qualities of the membrane (to stop the membrane from turning into a condensation lure).
Essentially the most fundamental sump could have a single mains pump. Battery again up pumps can be found and must be critically thought of for liveable grade as the implications of a failure might be large, with carpets furnishings, plasterboard, joinery all being in danger.
Battery pumps often run off 12volt DC present straight from the battery, others nevertheless run off AC (present such as you get from the mains) which is transformed from DC (battery present) by a DC-AC converter. Such transformed present will not be as environment friendly and far greater batteries are required to provide the identical pumping capability in case you are utilizing such a converter.
Battery pumps are considerably restricted as in contrast with the mains pump, they are typically much less highly effective on the entire and rely upon a restricted cost n the battery. So it may be thought of prudent to have a SECOND mains pump to behave as the first again up (protects towards each reason behind failure apart from a power reduce – after which a THIRD pump which is the battery pump which takes over within the occasion of a power reduce.
Both means, cautious consideration must be given to selecting a great high quality sump and pump system that’s acceptable for the mission. For bigger basements a couple of sump and pump could also be wanted.
While water could run down a wall simply – as gravity works that means – it’s not really easy for water to run horizontally over a floor. So the thought of getting a ‘dimpled floor membrane’ that water has to by some means meander underneath and discover the sump is moderately outdated. The trendy means is to incorporate a fringe underfloor channeling system that may direct the water straight underneath the floor to the sump.
As soon as the membranes are in place an inner end of plasterboard supported on timber battens or metallic stud is often used for the partitions and a floor end of board or screed is laid over the floor membrane.
There’s a neater floor therapy referred to as Thermal Dry Floor Tile which mixes the water-proofing along with the floor end within the type of an interlocking plastic tile which requires no additional overlay.
‘Different strategies’
To all intents and functions what we now have coated, pertains to about 95% of current basements.
Nevertheless, there are just a few ‘different’ issues which can be worthy of a short point out as they’re comparatively not often wanted, however when they’re they’re necessary:-
1. A variation on the underfloor channeling is an ‘above floor channel, like a hole skirting board that bonded to the floor. That is helpful for structural flooring that can not be chased out to simply accept an underfloor channel.
2. Resin Grouting. This entails drilling and injecting the construction with water reactive grouts that deplete the ingressing water in a chemical response and switch the resin and water combination into an impervious substance deep inside the ‘leak pathway’, thus stopping additional leakages. This system is barely related on sound constructions with outlined clacks or joints, equivalent to a cracked concrete retaining wall, not for typically porous substrates equivalent to brick or block.
3. ‘Dewatering System’ It’s usually attainable to cease a basement from flooding and obtain a grade 1 or 2 setting by utilizing a perforated sump liner and pumping system and underfloor channeling alone – no membranes to the wall or floor, so the system will not be a ‘drained cavity system as such however a ‘de-watered system’.
4. Mixture Techniques. generally one of the best method is to make use of a mixture of programs moderately than only one. Resin grouting might be use to stem excessive water flows adopted by a tanking or drained cavity system. A de-watering system with further waterproofing to the partitions OR floor can generally be related. Utilizing perimeter underfloor drainage separates the partitions and floor in order that totally different programs might be utilized to every, both totally different sorts of membrane or totally different generic programs, equivalent to membrane to the wall and waterproof cement to the floor. The latter is helpful if bonded ceramic tiles and required as the ultimate floor end.
In case you are contemplating a mixture system you must actually converse with a real professional in an effort to decide what is going to work and what is not going to – don’t depend on buddies or the native basic builder if they don’t seem to be specialists in basement waterproofing!
And one remaining level, If you wish to know the ‘least expensive’ strategy to waterproof your basement, then I’ll let you know…
Do it proper first time!
I’ve know so could folks do a £500.00 bitumen paint job adopted by a £3,000 ‘tanking slurry’ adopted by a £5,000.00 drained cavity system.
They thought that £500 was the most affordable however ended up paying £8,500.00.
If it is not going to work, then it is not the most affordable.
£5,000.00 is lower than £8,500.00!!!
So what about DIY Basement Waterproofing?
Properly now with a number of skilled programs accessible with full on web site assist you’ll be able to obtain a completely skilled, warrantied job with full after gross sales service and do a lot of the work your self and save £’000’s!!
So pleased waterproofing and hope you discovered this information helpful!!!